Skip To Content
JEWISH. INDEPENDENT. NONPROFIT.
Food

Making Moroccan Preserved Lemons in Time for Sukkot

Garnish your Sukkot meal — and table — with homemade Moroccan preserved lemons. Image by Elisheva Urbas

I’ve just made my second-ever batch of Moroccan-style preserved lemons, and I can’t believe it took me so long to learn how. The salty, citrusy, slightly spicy, sour taste is one of the backbones of the North African kitchen.

I remember being captivated by the idea of Mason jars filled with luminous yellow fruit when I first read Paula Wolfert’s “Couscous and Other Good Foods from Morocco” almost thirty years ago. Her description of the “silken texture,” and the little disclaimer about this recipe including herbs “in the style of Safi” — a place I had never heard of — rather than olive oil in the Jewish style, conjured a universe of spice shops, fragrances and landscapes out of T.E. Lawrence and Paul Bowles.

Related recipe:

But in my tiny walk-up apartment, with a food budget of mere dollars a day, the project seemed both too exotic and too luxurious for real life. I’d have to buy jars; did I have to sterilize them? How? Would I even be living there long enough to eat these lemons? The whole enterprise of preserved foods seemed beyond me.

Fast forward several decades, and the project suddenly felt much more approachable. For one thing, now Moroccan flavors conjured for me the tastes of the Israeli shuk and the fantastic foods of Israel’s North African Jews, still exotic but with an overlay of familiarity. For another thing, I’d been living in one place for more than ten years, and had a cabinet-full of jars under the kitchen sink.

And finally, several years of Hazon’s pickling workshops had persuaded me that lacto-fermentation really is easy — that in fact, if I put good things in a jar with enough salt to inhibit other kinds of microbes, the lactobacilli would do most of the work for me.

I ended up following Wolfert’s recipe, more or less. My quart jar would only hold five or six lemons before I cut them. But once I had quartered them almost to the end — so that they hold together but the insides are exposed — and liberally covered the cut surfaces with kosher salt, they flattened out in the jar, and almost twice as many fit. As each pressed down the ones below it, the jar filled up with salty lemon juice and glowing yellow rind. A few bay leaves, coriander seeds and peppercorns provided a visual counterpoint and, eventually, a spicy undertone taste to the finished lemons. When I could smash in no more fruit, I squeezed the juice of yet a few more lemons and poured it in to fill up all the little spaces, closed the jar, and set it ornamentally on my kitchen counter.

For the first few days, the fermenting lemons send up bubbles. Loosen the lid once or twice a day to “burp” your jar, then tighten and give a little shake to distribute salt and spices. When the bubbles no longer bubble up so much, if counter space is tight, you can put the jar into a pantry to cure another few weeks. After a month or so the lemons are soft and musky, and slivered bits will be ready to give any dish of chicken or fish a mysteriously Middle Eastern affect. After that, to slow the fermentation down, I moved my jar to the fridge, pulling quarters of lemons out one by one for nearly a year before there was nothing but dark, lemony brine left in the jar.

I used some of the leftover brine in vinaigrettes, and I’m told I should have put some into Bloody Marys. Next time. But this week I poured the saved remainder as a starter into a new jar of lemons. Now glowing saltily on the counter, they’ll be ready just in time to garnish my dinners on Sukkot.

Related:

Elisheva Urbas is Hazon’s Editorial Director. She’s been an editor, writer and writing teacher for many years, both as a freelance working directly with authors, and with publishing houses including Jewish Lights, Farrar, Straus, Giroux and Harper & Row; and also works with non-profit organizations to plan their publications. Elisheva is a long-time trustee and past president of the Solomon Schechter School of Manhattan, of which her three daughters are alumnae.

A message from our Publisher & CEO Rachel Fishman Feddersen

I hope you appreciated this article. Before you go, I’d like to ask you to please support the Forward’s award-winning, nonprofit journalism during this critical time.

We’ve set a goal to raise $260,000 by December 31. That’s an ambitious goal, but one that will give us the resources we need to invest in the high quality news, opinion, analysis and cultural coverage that isn’t available anywhere else.

If you feel inspired to make an impact, now is the time to give something back. Join us as a member at your most generous level.

—  Rachel Fishman Feddersen, Publisher and CEO

With your support, we’ll be ready for whatever 2025 brings.

Republish This Story

Please read before republishing

We’re happy to make this story available to republish for free, unless it originated with JTA, Haaretz or another publication (as indicated on the article) and as long as you follow our guidelines. You must credit the Forward, retain our pixel and preserve our canonical link in Google search.  See our full guidelines for more information, and this guide for detail about canonical URLs.

To republish, copy the HTML by clicking on the yellow button to the right; it includes our tracking pixel, all paragraph styles and hyperlinks, the author byline and credit to the Forward. It does not include images; to avoid copyright violations, you must add them manually, following our guidelines. Please email us at [email protected], subject line “republish,” with any questions or to let us know what stories you’re picking up.

We don't support Internet Explorer

Please use Chrome, Safari, Firefox, or Edge to view this site.