Devra Ferst
By Devra Ferst
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Food Katz’s Deli Opens In Brooklyn — Or Does It?
“It’s not Katz’s; you can’t recreate it — and I’m not going to try.” That’s Jake Dell, the owner of Katz’s, the deli icon that’s been slicing pastrami on the Lower East Side of Manhattan since 1888. But Dell is standing near a glowing red and white sign that, in the deli’s signature font, spells…
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Food Katz’s Deli Is Going Global
“Send a salami to your boy in the army.” That slogan is how Katz’s Deli kicked off its shipping business back during World War II. In more recent years, the Lower East Side house of pastrami has shipped corned beef, pickles, knishes, soup and yes, of course pastrami (both sliced and whole) to deli lovers…
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Food Top Food Trends to Taste in 2017
There was a time, in the not-so-distant past, when it felt like the foods of the Ashkenazi culinary canon needed saving. Pastrami, once a well-spiced meat, had turned into a salty ghost of its former self; matzo balls wallowed in flavorless broth, and bagels had become puffed-up versions of what they once were. Thankfully, a…
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Opinion The Back-to-the-Future Bagel
Noted food writer and bagel connoisseur Mimi Sheraton once wrote in The New York Times longingly about proper, old-fashioned New York bagels — small, dense beings with the perfect chew to their center and snap to their crust: “I remember them well…. Their like will not come this way again.” Three years later, bagels are…
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Food Finding Home at the Bottom of the Hummus Bowl
A bowl of Israeli style hummus at an event hosted by EatWith, a platform for sharing home-cooked meals. / Courtesy of EatWith I’ve never bought illegal drugs, but I imagine a small-time drug deal to feel a bit like buying hummus underground in Brooklyn. Periodically I receive an email from “Brooklyn Hummus” with the message…
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Food A Food Lover’s Farewell To the Forward
Martyna Starosta Shabbat dinner was a staple of my childhood — complete with sweet kiddush wine, freshly baked challah and friends around the table. But instead of the traditional chicken, kugel and tzimmes, our dinner menu was grilled fish, roasted vegetables and melon. Classic Ashkenazi or “bubbe fare” rarely graced our table. Brisket was reserved…
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Food Roundup: The Year of Hummus and Bagels Continues
Bagels at Black Seed. Credit: Devra Ferst As we predicted around Hanukkah last year, 2014 is indeed the year of the bagel and hummus. This week, the web’s filled with bagel recommendations and a savory hummus bread pudding recipe — oh, and the trade secrets to Katz’s pastrami. Where to get your lox on: The…
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Food Diner Meets Deli in San Francisco
New York chef Amanda Freitag (you might know her as a judge on Chopped or a contestant on Next Iron Chef) is headed to San Francisco this Sunday for a one night “Diner Meets Deli” pop-up at nouveau deli Wise Sons. Freitag, who helms the kitchen at Empire Diner and Wise Sons co-owner Evan Bloom,…
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